May's Longest Day

If you think May Day in central Europe is a celebration of work – think again.

With May 1st falling on a Tuesday, this unusual weekend began Friday evening and didn't end until Wednesday am.

I expect the extra Monday will be accounted as a "bridge" holiday, which usually requires a Saturday to be worked the following weekend.

Anyway, now the tourists are here, the atmosphere over four days of non-work became one of a long summer holiday – aided by weather reaching 32C.

I decided to try to fulfil an ambition – to get to the top of János Hill and view Buda and Pest from the city's highest landmark.

It takes a bus ride to get up to the general area. But, as you see from the photo, I seemed to alight at a point rather distant from my objective. I expected to find a cogwheel railway – as advertised – to the top of János Hill, but others getting off the bus denied any such thing existed.

'You'll have to walk a long way in that direction,' they said. So I contented myself with a walk through the area – Normafa – where I was.

If you know, and like, London's Hampstead Heath then you will appreciate the Buda Hills. The environment is similar – only bigger. In fact, it is remarkable how apparently impenetrable green-clad mountains turn into perfectly walkable woods and grass-scapes when you're there.

And, like Hampstead Heath, the area was well-populated by walkers, sun-worshippers and families enjoying the weather, plus the occasional organic play areas for small kids and the opportunity for adult kids to set-up barbecues without breaking bye-laws.

On May Day itself, central Pest turned into a sponsored racetrack. There were sports racing cars, formula one cars – and Jenson Button. I fancy Button had the better view of proceedings. With roads cleared, he stormed in his F1 between Parliament and Pest's ring road with a terminating straight up Alkotmany utca, which opens onto the vista of Parliament Square.

Although little could actually be seen, a memento remains in my ears and across the zebra crossing where Button performed his wheelies!

Celebrating 100-yr-old buildings

Visiting some of the locations in Budapest's 100-year-old buildings event, on Sunday, inspired me to look again – but more intently – at the architectural environment in which I daily walk.

It is only now I realise that much of the remarkable architecture that abounds in Budapest (beyond the considerable neo-classical) is a product of the Art Nouveau movement, which flourished in Europe around the turn of the 19th century.

On the one hand, I am disappointed to learn that Budapest's style is not entirely unique. On the other hand, the Hungarian manifestation of the movement is, indeed, wholly original. It owes its form as much – or rather more – to indigenous cultural influences (including those adopted from invaders) than to the refined artistic salons of Paris.

Unlike the delicacy of Lalique or Liberty designs, Hungarian architecture of this period is rugged, strong and earthy, yet presents a natural and human beauty that is, frankly, almost without words to describe.

The concept of Art Nouveau was to employ, and interpret, natural forms and structures. While some artists of the movement focused on the excessive beauty of their work, Hungarian buildings from this time excel in expressing what seems effortlessly natural, yet can have been achieved only through arduous attention to shape, form and detail.

The result is an environment that arises and blends with nature in a way wholly in keeping with the magic of Hungary, where nature expresses itself in almost metaphysical ways.

Hungarians, especially Budapestis, are rightly proud of their city and fully aware of the appeal it has for visitors. But Hungarians, instinctively, are neither boastful nor aggressive in marketing their culture (a consequence of centuries of foreign oppressors, no doubt).

So, to fully appreciate the Budapest experience one needs, quite simply, to "be there"– an attitude of mind that also seems to arise naturally in Budapestis.

Some photos taken of local buildings

Tourist season

It seems April 1st is the time when tourists seriously begin to materialise in Budapest.

Austrians and Germans are the first early visitors. But within a week tourist walks near the Danube become increasingly populated by a patchwork of linguistics.

Groups of the middle-aged can be seen standing motionless in the street, pointing uncertainly in all directions. Backpacked youngsters rest on walls, steps or benches, lost in study of the large city map.

The first five days of this April delivered a bonus for early travellers, with temperatures rising to 22C. But the Easter weekend was enveloped by an icy northern wind that muted the outdoor celebrations I visited high up on Buda's castle district.

The blend of coolness and humidity that followed is a curious experience. But the third week of the month is forecast more definitely to be cool and probably wet. A disappointment for tourists and for the many businesses that rely on tourist traffic.

But one week does not a summer make – and this is only spring. Budapest for sightseers is a magical world, with sufficient museums, fairs, festivals and events to satisfy, even in unpromising weather. I personally hope to take advantage of the free, 2-day door-opening of many of Budapest's 100-year old buildings this weekend.

Meanwhile, here is a sunny spring view from my window!

Is it Spring yet?

Pigeons have been inspecting the window ledges for a potential des-res. Branches in the street-trees are spreading signs of olive green. I'm assured we'll see no more snow. And, this Saturday, Budapest opens its artistic Spring Festival.

Could this mean real Spring is actually on it's way?

Weather-wise, the average day remains chilly. Overcoats and jumpers are still preferred. But skies can change quickly over Budapest. Mornings can be bright and sunny, delivering warmth through glass windows, yet easily turn to overcast afternoons – threatening, though rarely delivering, rain.

Fortunately, Thursday, 15th March turned out to be a fully, clear-skied day. 164 years earlier, standing on the damp steps of Budapest's National Museum, poet Sándor Petöfi delivered the politically-charged message that began Hungary's 19th century independence revolution.

The date is marked here by an annual national holiday – despite the ultimate failure and violent repression of the Hungarians' revolt by the country's Hapsburg rulers and their allies.

In keeping with its political history, this day is now an annual focus for party political rallies across the city. Being a short walk away, once again I found myself at a political rally in front of Budapest's grand parliament. And this one was addressed by none other than the Prime Minister himself; as is his responsibility on such a national occasion.

No, I didn't understand a word he said. It is frustrating – but it's how it is. Nevertheless, such events deliver intimations on the Hungarian character and on Hungary's international political stance.

For example: Hungary must submit to the EU, yet it hates EU interference. It creates laws through its democratic parliament, yet they are refused and sent back by the overlords in Brussels.

For Hungarians, history just seems to endlessly repeat itself – it's a fact of life that appears the only certainty. Real independence is forever just beyond Hungarians' reach!

Yet, as I returned through parliament square following the rally – after imbibing at a nearby hostelry – the air shook with the sounds of a youthful, head-banging rock band playing on the same steps that had supported the prime minister and his entourage.

There's plenty of bureaucracy and convention in Hungary, but there's a creative freedom of expression too. Tomorrow might bring a better future but, in the meantime, the present irresistibly deserves to be enjoyed.

Winter

Well, I thought the weather gods had decided to be lenient with Hungary this year. January was cold, but bearable, and I imagined the worst was over. Then February arrived.

Ukraine and Poland gave an early warning of harsh winter conditions ahead.  Seven days later, extreme cold descended on Hungary accompanied by snow.

Presently in Budapest, an 8 cm initial fall of snow has compressed on the ground. The Danube looks like a Canadian waterway, with broken ice floes over much of the surface drifting constantly downstream.

Daytime, with appropriate layered clothing, walking outdoors presents no problem. In fact, some clear sunny days have partially melted the snow.  But clear days merely set up nightfall for deeper extremes of cold.

Last Friday, when the official night temperature was merely -11C, I missed both the last metro and alternative bus home. This meant 40 minutes exposure... seeking options, walking for 20 minutes against ice wind, then waiting for the night tram to arrive. It was an interesting experience!

Today, Feb 8th, the southern regions of Hungary are forecast temperatures of -23C overnight. This is extreme – even for Hungary.

In such conditions the homeless (of which Budapest has far too many) become of prime concern. Extra police have been mandated to locate those still on the streets. Official hostels, however, have become full, requiring hospitals and other centres to open their doors for shelter.

Meanwhile, many schools have temporarily closed. The reason offered is they cannot afford the current costs of heating!

Hungary – a place of extremes – suffered, mainly, with remarkably quiet equanimity...