Tourist season

It seems April 1st is the time when tourists seriously begin to materialise in Budapest.

Austrians and Germans are the first early visitors. But within a week tourist walks near the Danube become increasingly populated by a patchwork of linguistics.

Groups of the middle-aged can be seen standing motionless in the street, pointing uncertainly in all directions. Backpacked youngsters rest on walls, steps or benches, lost in study of the large city map.

The first five days of this April delivered a bonus for early travellers, with temperatures rising to 22C. But the Easter weekend was enveloped by an icy northern wind that muted the outdoor celebrations I visited high up on Buda's castle district.

The blend of coolness and humidity that followed is a curious experience. But the third week of the month is forecast more definitely to be cool and probably wet. A disappointment for tourists and for the many businesses that rely on tourist traffic.

But one week does not a summer make – and this is only spring. Budapest for sightseers is a magical world, with sufficient museums, fairs, festivals and events to satisfy, even in unpromising weather. I personally hope to take advantage of the free, 2-day door-opening of many of Budapest's 100-year old buildings this weekend.

Meanwhile, here is a sunny spring view from my window!

Is it Spring yet?

Pigeons have been inspecting the window ledges for a potential des-res. Branches in the street-trees are spreading signs of olive green. I'm assured we'll see no more snow. And, this Saturday, Budapest opens its artistic Spring Festival.

Could this mean real Spring is actually on it's way?

Weather-wise, the average day remains chilly. Overcoats and jumpers are still preferred. But skies can change quickly over Budapest. Mornings can be bright and sunny, delivering warmth through glass windows, yet easily turn to overcast afternoons – threatening, though rarely delivering, rain.

Fortunately, Thursday, 15th March turned out to be a fully, clear-skied day. 164 years earlier, standing on the damp steps of Budapest's National Museum, poet Sándor Petöfi delivered the politically-charged message that began Hungary's 19th century independence revolution.

The date is marked here by an annual national holiday – despite the ultimate failure and violent repression of the Hungarians' revolt by the country's Hapsburg rulers and their allies.

In keeping with its political history, this day is now an annual focus for party political rallies across the city. Being a short walk away, once again I found myself at a political rally in front of Budapest's grand parliament. And this one was addressed by none other than the Prime Minister himself; as is his responsibility on such a national occasion.

No, I didn't understand a word he said. It is frustrating – but it's how it is. Nevertheless, such events deliver intimations on the Hungarian character and on Hungary's international political stance.

For example: Hungary must submit to the EU, yet it hates EU interference. It creates laws through its democratic parliament, yet they are refused and sent back by the overlords in Brussels.

For Hungarians, history just seems to endlessly repeat itself – it's a fact of life that appears the only certainty. Real independence is forever just beyond Hungarians' reach!

Yet, as I returned through parliament square following the rally – after imbibing at a nearby hostelry – the air shook with the sounds of a youthful, head-banging rock band playing on the same steps that had supported the prime minister and his entourage.

There's plenty of bureaucracy and convention in Hungary, but there's a creative freedom of expression too. Tomorrow might bring a better future but, in the meantime, the present irresistibly deserves to be enjoyed.