A walk on the wild side

An unpretentious lunch outside Anna's Cafe on Fovam tér is one good way to watch incoming tourists as they prepare to wend their way up the tourist-trapping Váci ut shopping street.

With luck, you may also be able to listen to, or join in, the conversations of others exchanging information about their travels – in the international language of communication, English.

This is what I did on Saturday, anyway. And, having enjoyed a good Magyar brunch and long beer in the umbrella-shaded heat, a long walk seemed to beckon so I headed for the Green Bridge.

Crossing the Danube on foot, or by vehicle for that matter, always expands the mind into the scale and place of Budapest, set across one of Europe's most important waterways, yet a city sufficient unto itself for a lifetime's adventure.

On the Buda side, the immediate attraction is the Gellert Hotel. But I felt like experiencing an elevated perspective, which meant trekking along the waterfront, beside the beach-front-like greenclad exposed rock-face of the Gellert Hills, and up to the next bridge, Erzsébet híd.

There one finds the inviting prospect of a series of medieval-looking grey stone-walled paths leading up the hills. These paths seem to wend their way in every direction, but always upward (if you're headed that way) and overshadowed by the thick, cooling bowers of trees and bushes that cover the hillside.

At the top, I was on Orom utca, a street that exemplifies the variety and indulgence that wealth can create in terms of Buda residential architecture. Its large, tall buildings – ranging from Art Nouveau to Art Deco, blends of the two, and occasional mini-Palladian style – must provide stunning views from the upper floors onto the vista of the city below.

To the right is a green park in which I discovered the Philosopher's Garden – a recent addition, which places statues of spiritual figures through the ages in a meditative circle that successfully (I think) offers the opportunity to calm the mind.

At the front of the park, a viewing balustrade and benches offer yet another incredible aerial view of Budapest, the river, Pest city and the skyline. Being a vertigo-sufferer, I had to hold onto the bench to avoid intimations that I was capable of flight (that's how it affects me, anyway).

Walking back down from here the parkland becomes a wide open, sculptured hilly space, with steps. Surrounded by verdant green, with views of the Castle to the left, the river and bridges ahead, and the proud structures of Pest beyond, makes one appreciate the good fortune of being in such a place as Budapest.

But thirst can overcome even the most profound musings. So, more walking – past the sadly neglected (but soon to be revived) Castle Bazaar promenade, onto a tram at Clark tér, off the tram at Bethany tér, and across the road to another favourite outdoor spot, Angelika Cafe. Here to watch the world go by with, in hand, a decent, long and fruity iced cocktail.

Getting back to my new home (see earlier posts) is not so difficult. Budapest has public transport sewn-up – they just need to find a way to make it pay! Five stops, and one change of train, and the metro takes me to Lehel tér, not far from my new (but probably temporary) abode.

Autumn leaves

Did we get an October Indian summer in Budapest this year? Unfortunately, no.

After little more than a week autumn arrived with rain and cold. The temperature remained cool through the month, confirming that warm outer clothes would now be the order of the day. But, as is typical for autumn, there have been many days with simply clear blue skies.

This period of the year sees some relief from the almost perpetual schedule of public events. But the turn of October to November also delivers three public holidays.

Republic Day, on October 23, recalls both the 1956 revolution and the proclamation of independence in 1989. Being a Sunday, this meant little change, aside from the opportunity for nearly a hundred thousand citizens to gather in Kossuth Lajos (Parliament) square to vehemently protest about everything!

All Saints Day is celebrated with a holiday on November 1. This being a Tuesday, an extra holiday is added on October 31, creating a 'long weekend', together with a few attempts at celebrating the unfamiliar concept here of Halloween.

Budapest is very peaceful (demos aside) on such autumn holiday occasions. Buda, the hilly and greener side of Budapest, provides a natural attraction for walking among fallen leaves and observing the crisp and coolish city from on high.

Many visitors will have taken the funicular that runs from close to the Chain Bridge up the hillside to Buda's Castle District above. It is worth doing. But I can recommend a more leisurely approach on foot that doesn't exhaust the legs.

Batthyányi Tér is the closest metro station. Walking through the square, and past to its left, you will find restaurants and bistro/bars. Turn left up Fő utca and to the right you will find Vam utca, which takes you steeply to Donáti street. This weaves left on cobbled stones past rustic buildings to a small village green.

About here, you may already be being seduced by the call of a gypsy fiddle. Above, you will see step paths leading you higher up the hill. Turn a final corner and all is revealed. The monumental masonry of Fisherman's Bastion and its many viewing galleries is upon you.

Fisherman's Bastion is one of the strangest locations in Budapest. Built at the turn of the 19th century, it seems to emulate a Disneyworld of what medieval castles ought to look like. But impressive it certainly is, and it provides some of the most stunning views of the Danube, Parliament and Pest city.

Walk up to Castle District's 'high street', keep crossing west, and you'll shortly be at the opposite western battlements. From here you can view the Buda side of town, with its seven or eight hills disappearing into the haze or autumn mist.

If your legs do get tired, the number 16 bus returns you downhill to the Chain Bridge and Pest.