Autumn leaves

Did we get an October Indian summer in Budapest this year? Unfortunately, no.

After little more than a week autumn arrived with rain and cold. The temperature remained cool through the month, confirming that warm outer clothes would now be the order of the day. But, as is typical for autumn, there have been many days with simply clear blue skies.

This period of the year sees some relief from the almost perpetual schedule of public events. But the turn of October to November also delivers three public holidays.

Republic Day, on October 23, recalls both the 1956 revolution and the proclamation of independence in 1989. Being a Sunday, this meant little change, aside from the opportunity for nearly a hundred thousand citizens to gather in Kossuth Lajos (Parliament) square to vehemently protest about everything!

All Saints Day is celebrated with a holiday on November 1. This being a Tuesday, an extra holiday is added on October 31, creating a 'long weekend', together with a few attempts at celebrating the unfamiliar concept here of Halloween.

Budapest is very peaceful (demos aside) on such autumn holiday occasions. Buda, the hilly and greener side of Budapest, provides a natural attraction for walking among fallen leaves and observing the crisp and coolish city from on high.

Many visitors will have taken the funicular that runs from close to the Chain Bridge up the hillside to Buda's Castle District above. It is worth doing. But I can recommend a more leisurely approach on foot that doesn't exhaust the legs.

Batthyányi Tér is the closest metro station. Walking through the square, and past to its left, you will find restaurants and bistro/bars. Turn left up Fő utca and to the right you will find Vam utca, which takes you steeply to Donáti street. This weaves left on cobbled stones past rustic buildings to a small village green.

About here, you may already be being seduced by the call of a gypsy fiddle. Above, you will see step paths leading you higher up the hill. Turn a final corner and all is revealed. The monumental masonry of Fisherman's Bastion and its many viewing galleries is upon you.

Fisherman's Bastion is one of the strangest locations in Budapest. Built at the turn of the 19th century, it seems to emulate a Disneyworld of what medieval castles ought to look like. But impressive it certainly is, and it provides some of the most stunning views of the Danube, Parliament and Pest city.

Walk up to Castle District's 'high street', keep crossing west, and you'll shortly be at the opposite western battlements. From here you can view the Buda side of town, with its seven or eight hills disappearing into the haze or autumn mist.

If your legs do get tired, the number 16 bus returns you downhill to the Chain Bridge and Pest.